The Summary: A happy year in Action

October 1st, 2010

This post is the last I will write to this digital address. It’s the conclusion and final word covering my memoirs of a Bulgarian epic.

I undertook a European Voluntary Service project with WWOOF Bulgaria, with unrepayable thanks to the dedicated efforts and organisation of those responsible for the birth of the organisation and project, the beautiful Cat and Ian. The project ran from June 1st 2009 to May 31st 2010 and the pages of this blog chronicle, to some extent, my experience.

I wrote about the European Voluntary Service, or EVS, for those looking for to participate in a long term volunteering project.

And lastly, the following is something like a year in photos, a little self indulgent maybe, but hopefully painting a interesting, if not descriptive picture of my journey.

Words can’t describe the Love I was so privledged to exchange with the amazing people in the photos, and the countless others I have not pictured. :)

Our On Arrival Training

I had an amazing welcome to Bulgaria

Hiked in the Stara Planina

…a great deal of time invested in managing facial hair…

I made a little spoon

…hitched and camped around Macedonia…

…helped out at a festival…

…made a table…

…met some incredible people…

…walked the sand pyramids near Melnik with Adam :)

…did some climbing…

…did some bulgarian cooking…

…travelled Bulgaria…

…made a sign…

…made a gate…

…met a very happy hippy…

…hitchhiked and couchsurfed in Turkey…

…learned so much…

…how to knit :)

…made another sign…

…met some more fantastic people…

…snowboarded with someone brilliant…

…had a Christmas feast…

…built a web site

…learned about permaculture…

…shaved my beard…

…met incredible people in Georgia…

…complete a mountaineering course…

…did some more very nice climbing…

…made a lot of cake…

…my Mother came to visit! :)

…celebrated my 25th birthday with amazing people…

…another amazing person came to adventure together…

…I made friends full of light…

…and it will always be just the beginning :)

(Now I’m writing here)

Adventures; beginnings, endings and circles

August 2nd, 2010

I finished my European Voluntary Service with WWOOF Bulgaria on the 1st June, also my 25th birthday, which I spent in Sofia with the beautiful Bill, Ina, Elena and Ronan; a very good friend from Ireland who recently came to visit and adventure around Bulgaria. :)

The day marked exactly a year since I left Ireland and started my journey in Bulgaria. A year I’ve documented on the little laptop I’m writing from now, while enjoying a melon, eating with a little wooden spoon, in need of a shower while I take a break from the delicate task of avoiding a potential massacre of snails, frogs and other wildlife that happen to be very sensitive to the destructive machines I’m using, with a little guilt, to carry out some weed and grass management at Trinity Rocks Farm.

During the year I undertook the EVS project with WWOOF Bulgaria, mentioned above, to help and learn on organic farms around the country. I spent incredible times at CROP, The Happy Hippy Hostel and Tree Pigs Farm, and learned and experienced more than could possibly be included in the ‘intended learning outcomes’ section of the project outline. I feel my physical, mental, and spiritual growth has been more in the last twelve months than any year previous, and I would say I have developed more than changed.

A little about what European Voluntary Service, EVS,  is…

Youth in Action: EVS The European Voluntary Service provides young Europeans with the unique chance to express their personal commitment through unpaid and full-time voluntary activities in a foreign country within or outside the EU. In this way, it seeks to develop solidarity, mutual understanding and tolerance among young people, thus contributing to reinforcing social cohesion in the European Union and to promoting young people’s active citizenship.

Open to all young people aged 18 to 30, EVS is a true ‘learning service’. Beyond benefiting the local communities, by participating in voluntary activities, young volunteers can develop new skills and, therefore, improve their personal, educational and professional development. Their learning experience is formally recognised through a Youthpass. Participation is free for the volunteers who also get board and lodging, insurance cover and an allowance for the duration of the project.

Really it’s difficult to overstate how much I recommend the EVS experience. If anyone wants some information on how to find a project and apply, send me a mail (paddy@paddyohanlon.ie). :)

I’ve spent time reflecting and digesting the recent past, using my thoughts, my own diary, a brochure, created for dissemination of project outcomes, and the project evaluation reports as my tools for assimilation. The brochure I created is below, although it looks a little unusual in this format; imagine a 3 page folded flyer. :)

outside-pages-no-bleed

inside-pages-no-bleed

I don’t feel like going into my EVS self evaluation any more here though. Instead I want to recount where my body and mind has been since then, in the last month, and where I’m directing my thoughts and energy now. :)

Before parting company at the farm, CROP, Zhelen, I was very fortunate to spend time with Signe and Radu, from Denmark and Romania. It was thoroughly my pleasure, they shine constantly and you notice a unique magic about both of them very quickly. :) We travelled to Veliko Tarnovo together and visited some beautiful nearby places, with beautiful weather and equally beautiful cherry and mulberry trees. In the two weeks or so that we shared much of it was happily spent in trees. :) I discovered eating mulberries straight from the branch, without using your hands, offers a very satisfying and different fruit eating sensation, especially after rain, it seems like the most fresh and natural activity. The photos below show some of our adventures.

Fromthe left: Radu, Signe, Me and Lidiya :)

From the left: Radu, Signe, Me and Lidiya :)

Picking the Bulgaria's most perfect cherries

Picking the Bulgaria's most perfect cherries

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Emen Gorge

Emen Gorge

Trinity Rocks

Trinity Rocks

I’ve taken up residence at Trinity Rocks over the last three weeks, giving myself some time to remain stationary, and have been helping Cliff with general upkeep of the place, some preparation for a festival happening here in September and a new web site (www.velikotarnovocamping.com). The climbing has been very very nice and I’m happily progressing and enjoying more and more. I’ve dedicated other time to developing a logo and web site for the newly founded non-profit organisation United Rights, which I’m very glad to be part of. :)

United Rights Logo

My Mother came to visit recently for a week. It had been over a year since we had seen each other, the longest time that’s passed with such a distance between us. We visited Hotnitsa Waterfall and Dryanovo Monastery, took a walk to Trinity Rocks to see the cliffs and cave and generally we relaxed, talked about life, coffee and health and enjoyed each others company. :)

I’ve taken an unexpected interest in memory lately, researching basics on different models for perceiving how the memory works in an effort to better understand the more unconscious processes taking place when I remember things. My idea is that these processes are like techniques, and as with any techniques, as you increase understanding of the system for which they’re applied you can also increase effectiveness of the techniques. So for memory, my quest is to discover, learn about and create and customise methods for remembering this and in doing so improve memory; for remembering day to day things, tasks, long term ideas and goals, words and grammar for language, everything. Also I noticed that when reading recalling the information was crucially linked to how well I store the information I’ve just exposed myself to and tried to take in. So a simple game or exercise I try it to recount a paragraph or chapter in my own words, in my head, to myself, or out loud to a fortunate person nearby, or in writing. The idea is not to reproduce the words and construction of words the author has used, but to assimilate what I have interpreted as that which she or he tried to express and to store and digest the information by converting it into my own personal language; a form I can re-express using combinations of words and a thought process more typical of me. I find I need to be well rested to do this, it requires a considerable amount more energy than my usual not so engaged reading and it takes a lot more time, but my idea is that with practice I will develop this technique and it will become easier and easier, until it becomes my reading norm. At that time information I take in, which I’ve chosen as valuable enough to acquire in the first place, will be of much greater value. From there I’m imaging another level which will present itself, where again methods can be improved.

I’m constantly trying things with the food I eat also, in a combined effort to explore myself in a holistic way. I think my idea of holistic, or my whole picture of myself will also develop with thought and development. I’ve eaten a vegetarian diet, although not strictly, for some time now, over a year and at the start of this year I began experimenting with food combining; highlighting the importance of not only eating ‘healthly’ things, but the importance of the combinations, the quantities and, to a lesser extent, the times they’re eaten at. For almost two months now I’m experimenting with a raw food vegan diet, eating what most consider a ridiculous amount of fruit, with quite a lot of vegetables, and so far, it’s quite amazing. A lot are skeptical of different things concerning the diet, if I’m getting sufficient amounts of protein, B12, the omega fatty acids, and I’m very receptive to these questions, I think they’re necessary. My attitude is not to think I’ve chosen the right way of eating and to build a wall around me while I have fruit helicoptered in from above, rather I see all comments as healthy criticism; the questions are invaluable and have highlighted huge gaps in my knowledge about the body’s requirements in certain areas. In fact, the more I research, converse and learn, it seems the less and less I realise I know about my body. Particularly about the idea of listening to what your body wants. I know very well when I’m empty and full, but as far as requirements for more subtle things I’m yet to reach the most basic level in understanding my bodies messages, like a language I haven’t taken the time to learn, I understand quite well when it shouts at me and slaps me in the face, but the more subtle mid tones are still lost on me. For any interested the diet I’m most inspired by at the moment is the 801010 diet, advocated and imagined by Dr. Doug Graham.

This post is long and is a little patchwork, but I will persist. I’ve reevaluated and reminded myself of the reasons why my writing is important and see it as necessary to persist with this cleansing post; clearing and piecing together recent life. :) I’ll finish on my ideas for directions from now. I’ve not long returned from a short and beautiful trip to Romania with Elena. I have to make special note of the incredible and beautiful Gabi and Nicol who we contacted through couchsurfing and invited us into their beautiful home for some nights. Now I’m in Sozopol (I’ve written the post in several pieces), on the Black Sea in Bulgaria, travelling with some very interesting and happy newly found friends, Andrei and Boba. :) And after this I will go climbing with Tisho in Croatia before returning to Bulgaria to start a long hitchhike to France to pick grapes in September and October, and to do some climbing in France before starting another journey north to an eco village which I have been very impressed by, Svanholm. I feel I will learn a lot, particularly about there self government, their community model seems the most successful I’ve come across to date. After Denmark we’ll see. Lidiya and myself are searching for a long term opportunity further abroad; volunteering or working in South America, The Far East, Australia or New Zealand… to narrow it down a bit. :)

Now is very exciting, but I found I had not asked myself some very important questions recently, particularly regarding travelling. My idea for the next few years is to live and in several countries, to acquire the language and experiences and for this to be a foundation in life education, to broaden my whole self, to be constantly stimulated and to continuously learn and be happy. How I’ve arranged my travelling and moving and working, the occupation of my time and energy, is such as to fulfill those requirements and criteria as best I’ve concluded for now. Where a small gap started to develop started to develop was in the infrequency of asking, ‘why am I doing what I’m doing now’. For example, something as simple as, why am I travelling along the Black Sea now. I like to answer as simply as possible first before exploring deeper and I returned with, because it’s very enjoyable to go to the sea, to swim, enjoy the sun, the landscape, the company of the people I will travel with and those I will meet; even more simply the answer is enjoyment. And something rang a little hollow there. I made a further reevaluation of what I’ve been doing with my time, and then what I’m doing today, yesterday, really what did I do and why, each day should be full and directed, to have a purpose, but not to be so fixed in that purpose as to close from opportunities and enjoyment. So of late, I have been climbing, reading about Taoist meditation, spending an awful lot of time thinking about food in life, stretching and practicing yoga, I’ve been doing some design work, for Veliko Tarnovo Camping (Trinity Rocks) and for United Rights. I’ve explored happily the reasons for each of these activities, but the overall result is that there is some imbalance. I’ve concluded roughly two things; something I’ve identified as creative/expressive/imaginative power, something like a muscle that should be exercised regularly to stimulate and improve it. I see it as the creation and realisation of ideas and dreams, when you have an idea to create something, a new recipe, to paint a picture, to arrange to meet friends and do something different, this spontaneous imagination, the ability we have to take existing things and to make something new and beautiful from them, to dream and create; I will avoid any further attempts at philosophical digging and make a comparison to Robert M. Pirsig’s idea of Quality for those who’ve, I’m sure, very pleasantly read his book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. Not that this is very relevant, but I really recommend this book for anyone looking for something to think about. :)

Coming back to the imaginative power, I’m thinking of activities to incorporate into daily life to exercise this. One of the most promising is that of directing the imagination and creative thinking to others, to simply making others happy; a simple idea and activity I’ve written something about before, but which I’ve yet to develop as a habit. I’ve almost mentioned before investing energy positively in others, as I see it now, is like planting the best seeds in the best conditions with the hope of growing positive and happy energy in the world; and positive and energetic people. :) The practical application of this idea is crucial though, I’m realising better and better that all the good intents and ideas in the world are fantastic but not realised, not made real, until they’re being used and applied in life. So I will do some thinking, set some goals and let you know what my results are. :) I’d love to hear some suggestions too.

Love, smiles and much happiness today! :)

Georgia? :)

May 5th, 2010

On the return journey from Georgia I took time to think about what I would like to write about it. I wasn’t there for long, but I felt I wanted to express my experience, my impression of the country and people I met in a fitting way. It was the first time I tried this, generally I just start writing without much forethought or editing; I pick a subject, a journey or event, and start. I’m not sure why it was different this time. I decided to form some questions and to see what my answers would be… For example, if somebody asked me ‘what is Georgia like’, what would I say.

where-is-georgia2

I was in the country to attend a week long youth meeting, ‘Racism and Intolerance: Shared Agenda for a Shared Future’, and maybe after that I was a little more conscious of and wanted to avoid generalisations; to avoid saying Georgians do this or that and so on. I wanted to say something more than, ‘it was great, nice, beautiful’. So how do you tell somebody what a place is like, what do they want to know when they ask that? About the people maybe, how they live, statistical info, how big the country is, what the food is like. I turned the question and asked myself what I wanted to know about places people have visited. What do I mean and what do I want to know when I ask ‘how was such a place’?

My thoughts settled on recounting experiences. What do I know about a place other than what I’ve experienced. I know some from what I’ve heard, second hand information passed on, but my opinion, what I think of a place lies in my personal experiences there. To say all Georgians are crazy drivers, because the traffic in Tbilisi, the capital, is a little more than chaotic isn’t useful or accurate. To generalise is to smear a canvas with few and basic colours for the sake  of covering the surface area. Every country is incredibly rich and painted and coloured collaboratively and masterfully by it’s people, it’s culture. So I’ve decided I was fortunate to become familiar with only a thread of an immense and beautiful piece, and instead of laying a blanket over and smothering, I wish to tell only of my little and beautiful experience, for it to reveal something small and hopefully for it to suggest something much greater. :)

I arrived in the Georgian capital early after a night by bus from Trabzon, Turkey. My first call to action was to avoid taxi drivers taking my bag and to quickly move to somewhere people weren’t shouting undesired destinations so I could settle. I found solitude in the station toilet and some comfort in understanding that the elderly lady managing the toilet wanted twenty tetri admission; the currency of Georgia is the lari, which is divided into 100 tetri. The woman spoke Russian, as do a majority of the population, particularly older generations, and some words are similar to Bulgarian, particularly numbers. The widespread knowledge of Russian is common in former members of the Soviet Union. Georgian is the official language though, completely separate from Russian. The alphabet, mkhedruli, is unique and incredibly beautiful. I picked up a few basic words while I was there. I’ll show some images of the alphabet rather than try describe it. :)

letters

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The photo is from the Georgian magazine Liberali, for which Sergi, a good friend, illustrates. We met in Bulgaria the year previous where he was working with Ecomission 21st Century as an EVS volunteer. He is also co-responsible for We Are Sweet | WAS, an online cultural, art, design and music magazine, compiling work and interviews from creatives around the world. They have just published the second issue, Resurrection, which I very much recommend.

was

I found my way to the centre of Tbilisi and wandered for a while before meeting with Sergi. We visited a nice cafe come bookstore and talked, mostly about our EVS colleagues and friends from Bulgaria, until my bus to the meeting in Bakuriani was due to leave. :) I spent a week at the meeting before returning to Tbilisi, very happily and coincidentally on Sergi’s birthday, he is 288 months yould at the time of writing. :)

sdc14709

I arrived back to the capital with a very brilliant person I already considered a friend, Lucy from Czech. We were met by her friend Georgi and went to another cafe/bookstore, a very nice place, with impressively nice cakes and staff. :) Georgian grows and produces it’s own tea, I found out thanks to the menu there, although it’s considerably expensive unfortunately and there’s not much exported from what I was told. Sergi joined us for a while before we parted to drop off bags and prepare to later rejoin for evening social activities. :)

We took a marshrutka, a small mini bus, to his place, which I was glad we opted for over a taxi; it was interesting to say the least. :) The marshrutkas have routes and number, but no defined stops or passenger capacity. You can hail them from anywhere and with little notice and they’ll stop suddenly in the middle of heavy traffic, take the passenger, and start again with as little caution. The result is an almost entertain chorus of car horns and a wave of pulling in and over taking as traffic tries to move around the mini bus that’s just stopped in its path. The windscreen of my mini bus was shattered from what looked like two different blows to the glass. Sergi told me the buses are the most commonly used form of transport in Tbilisi, it was easy to imagine how they might contribute some stress to a busy city life. :)

I stayed at Sergi’s place for my couple of nights in Tbilisi and was very warmly welcomed by his very fantastic mother. :) I felt very comfortable there immediately. We returned to the centre, joined and were joined by friends and family; Sergi’s sister and husband, Anna and Kyle, and returned again to Sergi’s home together to celebrate his becoming very old very fast. :p We had met at a café come gallery which I really like. They had an exhibition there from different Georgian artists, maybe from other countries also, and you were encouraged to draw by the colouring pencils on each of the tables. I spent quite a while collaborating on piece with the very interesting Vika Supertramp, which I assume is now framed and hanging on a wall in the cafe. :) One of Sergi’s best friends arrived and gave him a transformer as a birthday gift… so we had colour pencils and toys… perfect. Toys are very healthy I think, it’s not good to be purposeful all the time, it’s easy to miss the point if you are, whatever your point may be.

Sergi’s mother played the perfect host and treated us with some Georgian food and wine; Georgia is known for producing quality wine. She also made several toasts, to friends, to family, to success and health in life and many more all including positive wishes. It was very nice. Frequent and lengthy toasts are very much part part of the culture I was told and witnessed both at Bakuriani and in Sergi’s home. To tell of only some of the food, we enjoyed olivie, a salad based on something like mayonaisse with patato, peas and several other ingredients; Badrijani nigvzit, which I hope to try to make tomorrow, is an aubergine based dish, with walnuts, some typical Georgian herbs and pomegranate arils; Khachapuri, a flat bread with cheese in the middle; Tonis puri, a bread made in a special over called a toni. There was more which I can’t recall now, and sweet things and cake. I had a slightly full but very happy belly that evening. :)

Sergi ordering bread for me from a toni

Sergi ordering bread for me from a toni

I was fortunate to sit in on a rehearsal of Me and My Monkey, a electo-indie group from Tbilisi who are good friends of Sergi. They were finishing of a new track which was at the time untitled. Enjoy the video below, there’s little need to say more. :) Me And My Monkey Blog and Web site.

I parted company the following morning and headed to Istanbul by bus which took little over a day, from their I returned to Bulgaria, very full, very satisfied and very happy. :)

So what do I think of Georgia? The same I think of every country; to simplify an answer to ‘good’ or ‘bad’, ‘nice’ or ‘not so nice’ is to be disgustingly insulting. Lifetimes can be spent searching them, and each is as amazing and beautiful, as rich and valuable as you allow it to be. So I can say I look forward to returning to Georgia and think and hope that that time is not in the too distant future. :)

Crossing Turkey: Rocks, friends, food, people, love :)

April 27th, 2010

I’m sitting in a restaurant in Kocaeli in Turkey. I started yesterday evening from Bulgaria, by bus from Veliko Tarnovo to Istanbul, where I arrived this morning (Saturday 17th April) around 06.00 while it was still dark. I started for my aids; map, currency exchange and Internet access. I sourced a bad map of Turkey, and still needed one for Istanbul, opted for a bank machine instead of the dodgy option of using anyone selling anything as an exchange place, which I assumed to offer fluctuating rates, depending of the customer, most likely not in my favour and decided to forego the Internet access after the wireless option was less open and more paid that I cared for.

Tulips and Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Tulips and Blue Mosque, Istanbul

My destination is Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, and my plan is to head roughly east. I took a metro to a central point in Istanbul, found a map of the city, decided a route; to take a ferry to the Asian side and walk to the motorway for Ankara. The morning walk in Istanbul was fantastic, the ferry as enjoyable as I remember, I’m convinced it contributes to the calmness in the surrounding parts of the city despite how busy it tends to be. I got a little mixed up heading to the motorway and found someone after a few attempts who could improve my direction. He is a juvenile judge in Kadıköy and is studying English for eight months. He was a very nice guy and seemed happy to practice his English, continuing, after pointing me in the right direction, to recommend some places to see in Istanbul and offering to drive me to them. I explained I was was only passing through Istanbul, but that the offer was much appreciated, and he then insisted he drive me to the motorway. So he did and continued to a good spot to start hitchhiking from. :) A very beautiful start to the day.

After waiting with my Ankara sign for a few minutes an elderly couple approached and tried to explain that I needed to take a mini bus to Harem and to get a bus to Ankara from there. The trouble was in replying; thanking them for the help, but explaining that I wished to hitchhike. Another five minutes later we hadn’t made much progress and I think it was only their concern for my welfare that kept them so insistent. The asked a young guy, Engin, who was walking by, could he speak English and translate for them. He did both. He immediately said he was on his way to climb and some friends were about to pick him up, but something had come up, he could no longer go and I could have his place in the car. I think he had started calling his friends almost immediately, as I unnecessarily asked if it was an inconvenience, as if anyone is going to say so after offering something like that, I’ve decided to just accept gratefully in future. :)

Honey Rocks, Gebze

Honey Rocks, Gebze

His friends shortly arrived, all on their way to rock climb at a spot that translates as Honey Rocks, near Gebze, a little under an hours drive east of Istanbul. There were six people in the car when it pulled up, so I did insist that I would continue hitchhiking from there, but as I was talking they exited the car and put my bag in the back. Seven of us piled into the car and several hundred metres down the road one of the girls got out. It turned out she continued her journey by bus so they could take me in the car, which I didn’t know how to reply to… I could have taken a bus of course, it was beyond above-and-beyond.

We made for Gebze, six in the car, all very nice people living in Istanbul, one of them a gentleman from France who I spoke with most, his English and my french abilities being about matched. :) He has been living in Istanbul for two years and speaks the language very well. We reached a camping ground and the start of the path to the rocks, my company sourced a harness for me and we continued to create an amazing day. At the moment I can’t think of anything that makes me happier than climbing, it occupies fully the self, body, mind and what ever extras you prefer to include. :)

Climbing at Honey Rocks, Gebze

Climbing at Honey Rocks, Gebze

I was dropped to a motorway and made it to Izmit that evening, from there I took a night train to Ankara. The morning I started on my longest hitchhiking day to date, the distance and time taken are irrelevant I’ve decided. I’ll include rather the moments of time during the journey to which I merit value. :) After several short rides a great person allowed me squash into an already full car. Several other hitchhikers exited and entered the car during the journey. We stopped for Turkish chai and I listened but didn’t understand the words of conversation between him and an Islamic teacher he had picked up. Later we stopped for food, he ordered before we sat down and quickly the waiter put some paper on the table, on which he arranged a tomato and pepper cream dish, bread, water and chai. The person I was travelling with showed me to break the bread and scoop from the dish, we ate from the same dish. A plate of honey and what I was later told was chestnut butter, placed in the centre of the honey, arrived. He sent back some bread to be heated and then broke the bread and filled the centre with honey and butter. He seemed to change between the savory and sweet flavours by taking some water or chai. This was very beautiful for me, we could not communicate with words, but I feel the meal was incredibly pleasant for both of use.

I parted in Samsun and made it to Ünye that night and surrendered to a cheap hotel after an hours unsuccessful walk along a developed coastline, with not sight of a place to set up my tent. The rest in the hotel was well enjoyed and notably worthwhile after realising my fatigue later on reaching Tbsilisi.

Ünye

Ünye

The following day I started east along the black sea coast, the north of Turkey. I got a lift to Ordu with Bryan Adams as the backing track for the stretch. The gentleman, Gazi, who picked me up treated me to organic honey from his grandfather, with hazelnuts, walnuts and ginseng; heaven. :) Reaching Ordu he brought me into his place of work and introduced me to his colleagues. We went for lunch at what I was told is a famous restaurant in the town, famous for it’s İşkembe Çorbası, tripe. The restaurant served only three types of this, which I guessed were the stomachs from different animals. The smell was intense and after being without meat in my body for about four months the effect was harsh to say the least, but I decided it was part of my experience. I felt surprisingly good after the meal, which was accompanied by a bucket of bread pieces on each table, quite a large transparent plastic bucket, quite bizarre for me. :) Quite bizarre for me to think it’s bizarre for others. :)

To road from Ünye to Ordu

To road from Ünye to Ordu

One of Gazi’s colleagues, Yavuz, has hopes and dreams of studying at a language school and living in Ireland. It turned out to be his birthday and he referred to me as his birthday present. He said it was the nicest surprise gift to meet me on his birthday and I had no words… I offered to put him in touch with friends, recommend places I think he would like and to keep very positive for his opportunity to come. :) Still now I can’t put the feeling into words, I want to say it was a little like being a celebrity, but that’s far off. Feeling important is still wrong. It was a unique feeling that brings a sensation across the front upper part of my stomach. To be able to make some happy, by doing nothing… by no act. The happiness is returned with a newness and lightness.

A couple of successful lifts saw me arriving at Trabzon later that day. A few days previous I received a message from Julien and Stephanie, brilliant people cycling from Belgium to India who I was fortunate to meet in Bulgaria. It was a very nice coincidence that I was only a few hundred kilometres away and en route to them when I read the message. :) So we met up at a typical Turkish bar and spent some hours together while I decided how to continue with the time I had left with which to reach the Georgian capital. I opted for a night bus and parted company happy and excited by stories from their adventures. :)

And so my short and full Turkey crossing closed. :)

A Happy World :)

March 14th, 2010

Smiley face

What is your happy world like? If you had the power to make everything the way you see as perfect, what does that perfect place look like, what do the people do, where do they live, why is it perfect, why are the people happy?

I was thinking last night, while writing a letter to a very special friend, that we are all able to predict the future in a way. We say I’m going to go to the shop to get something, then we go to the shop and get something. We make a prediction about something, we imagine doing something, then we do it. I’m going to make the tea, then you make the tea. Very easy, but every step we take involves us imagining and creating the future, which then becomes the present, reality.

So what about bigger things; passing exams, graduating from college, getting a job we love. Can we imagine these things and make them happen? Why not. How many people have said I’m going to go to get a degree or a job end up getting a job and graduating from college. Of course there’s different success rates, there are no absolutes and it’s the unexpected variations and colour in life that makes it interesting.

Things that are more complicated require more imagination I think, but are every bit as possible as the things we find easy. If you can imagine something you can realise it, you can make it real. I think there’s skill involved though, you’re painting a picture, so you need to learn how to colour your canvas. Like learning anything, or developing anything in a creative way, and all things are creative, it can take time. Sometimes the picture doesn’t come out quite right, we need to add somethings here or there, we need to start again sometimes, but build on what was learned from the last attempt. We’re all imagination artists and visionaries.

What about our happy worlds? Very large and complex pictures maybe. But why is it less possible to realise something more detailed and large. It takes more time, energy and imagination, but it’s possible. Maybe with bigger pictures we have to share our imaginative space with others. To discuss our dreams, ideas, to ask, think and share our picture. If we ask ourselves what makes us happy, and what kind of place we want to be in, that will soon become the place we live in, we will realise it and we’ll get better at realising things. We’ll become more aware of what things make us happy and make more of those things. :)

So what makes you happy and how does your picture look? :)

I’ve decided the following are some things that make me happy….

  • Being in the mountains
  • Climbing
  • Music
  • Reading and writing
  • Cooking
  • Making cakes
  • Drawing smiley faces
  • Eating
  • Sleeping :)

I’ve another quick thought. To not think of problems in the world, or not to think, ok, we have these things that are problems and we need to fix them. I don’t believe there was a time when everything ‘worked’ or was perfect, to how can we fix it? It’s not broken, problems are situations and actions and people that could be interacting in a way to make people happier and so be seen as being better or improved. So instead of thinking of the world as full of problems, I suggest seeing the state of everything now as an art box, full of things with which to create and colour the world.

Of course this changes little in what many call reality, but it changes how we view things and maybe how we view things is really how things are. Which sounds better, dealing with a big mess full of holes that need to be patched up or creating a beautiful, colourful, happy picture from a world of materials with amazing potentials.

The abandoned village, cheese, sprouts and a birthday

February 14th, 2010

A couple of weeks back now, I arrived in from a very fantastic day walking, to an abandoned village near to Letovnik and after to a nearby cave I explored with Dave, the two Lara’s, Corrado, Heodes, Christoph and Eli. Heodes and Christoph were visiting from Sofia for a couple of days and it was Heodes’ Birthday during her time here. We celebrated in style at the Happy Hostel and continued with our adventures that day after some breakfast face painting. :)

Lara and Dave

Lara and Dave

Eli and Heodes

Eli and Heodes

Corrado, my fellow volunteer and friend from Italy, and I made ricotta yesterday evening. Earlier on in the week Aieesha, one of our amazing neighbours, brought over three litres of very fresh and natural milk from her animals and showed me how to make sirene (сирене); the typical Bulgarian white cheese which I’ve mentioned before I’m sure. I’ve never made cheese before and was delighted to learn. She thought me how to make yogurt before also.

Straining the whey, making sirene

Straining the whey, making sirene

My first cheese making attempt :)

My first cheese making attempt :)

The last few weeks included a lot of baking. I’ve modified a sponge cake recipe to a yogurt cake, as I rarely have butter and experimented with some apple and cinnamon, which Lara topped off and decorated perfectly with yogurt and mulberry jam. :) I attempted a banitsa, typical Bulgarian pastry, including making the pastry, and a half pumpkin banitsa, half pumpkin pie, Lara and myself invented. Several breads were made. Some baked for buns to show case the very excellent and home made ostrich burgers now in Happy Hippy Stock. I tried some despite not eating meat at the moment, I’d never eaten ostrich before. :) I got to try my hand a some food photography as well.

Happy Hippy Ostrich Burger

Happy Hippy Ostrich Burger

Lara thought me how to sprout things, as in beans, seeds, some grains. You soak whatever is to be sprouted (something suitable for sprouting) and rinse several times a day for several days. The bean or seed starts to sprout and you have a very healthy food. I’ve several things sprouting which should be ready at staggered intervals. :)

I’ve parted company with the brilliant Happy Hippy people, for now :) . I did some reflection on the bus to Sofia. It seemed like I hadn’t stopped for the month I was there, in a very good way, but I found it difficult to recount everything. Maybe because I was trying to do it all at once and there was a lot there. So I started from that day I arrived in my journal… and it was a very full month. :) Very complete. Some of the highlights I’ve mentioned already. Some less interesting but more personal things maybe… I’ve been quite disciplined with my mornings, not eating right away, stretching, some yoga and some light meditation. I’ve revised my goals also, for the project and the more distant future. Also I’ve been thinking about how I occupy myself, what are the things I do most often and why do I like doing things I haven’t tried before, and how much time, roughly, do I spend on each activity. Now I’m reflecting on what I’ve made note of and asking is there anything I feel missing, or that I want to remove and am I doing things in a way now that allows all the positive things to keep growing, while allowing room for variation. The variation is natural I think, organic occupational activities and use of time (time management is a horrible term). By realising for what reason I do what I do the activity becomes less important, or rather can be varied to more successfully fulfil the reason. That sounds very analytical maybe, but I’m using the approach to be more fluid and aware, than more strict. It’s an experiment, variety breeds interesting things. :)

The abandoned village

The abandoned village

Exploring the cave

Exploring the cave

Plovdiv to the Happy Hippy, and my magic room

January 31st, 2010

The road from Bansko to Plovdiv was beautiful, the start of the journey cuts through the south east of the Rila Mountains. One gentleman who gave me a lift gave me some of his home made wine to try. He sold his produce at bazaars around the country. I gratefully accepted the gift but passed onto others I met later in the day who I judged who enjoy and appreciate much more than me. :)

Plovdiv

The very beautiful, for a city, Plovdiv is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, beginning as a Thracian settlement before becoming a major Roman city. The cities history is often better know by it’s old Greek name Philippopolis (thankfully assisted by wikipedia :) ). I spent some hours wandering the city, looking for accommodation and an internet cafe, in the opposite order. The cafe I searched for after being quoted a touristish price from one hostel I walked across.

Roman amphitheatre

After doing some research, I sourced a hostel, the first time I’ve stayed in paid accommodation in Bulgaria, and made my way to the Hikers Hostel. A place I very much enjoyed and recommend. You can sleep in the breakfast/common area for 14lv with breakfast and Internet access included.

Plovdiv has three hills which climb from amongst the development and keep a striking green far above the cities skyline, giving a unique, recognisable and almost natural feel to the area. My mission was to climb them after a tour of the old quarter and a quick run by the more reputable Roman sites.

Plovdiv

I made two of the three and was rewarded with very impressing views. The third I took a wrong turn towards and ended up in a medical university, so eager to press on I returned to the hostel, collected my gear and sought directions to a good hitching spot in the direction of Asenovgrad. I was very fortunate to meet a very excellent person, Koprinka, who worked at the hostel. I ended up staying a few extra hours there before making my way to the edge of the city, on to Asenovgrad and then to Bachkovo. My route was a little last-moment. I searched for some information on mountain trails and came across a trek from Bachkovo Monastery to a small town called Dobrostan. As I missed out on the mountains but gained a lot in other ways from Bankso I still had the desire and I would say need to spend some time in the mountains on my own. So this was perfect. I allowed ample time and planned a short two day trek through the Rhodope Mountains, from, to and across places I’d never been before. Perfect. :)

Map of my travels in Bulgaria

I’m thinking there are a lot of place names here which mean little to most. So maybe a map will help give some reference. The map is of Bulgaria of course and I’ve marked my route from Sofia to Bansko, which I wrote about in my last post, and on to The Happy Hippy Hostel.

A couple of quick and pleasant rides later and I was wandering through Bachkovo Monastery. A priest with the most impressive beard I’ve experienced in person accompanied me into the church before making the sign of the cross on my chest twice. I got the impression he thought I needed some guidance. I also got the impression that his beard was outstanding, easily 50cm long and 20 wide.

Monasteries generally impress me little, something I’m consciously trying to develop appreciation for, and I soon pressed on. The route led up to the mountains straight from the monastery and the mountains soon surrounded me, the sun breaking over peaks as I headed a little east of south. After an hour and a half walking I estimated the same time left before dark. I came to a very nice area. There was a small church and a shrine, to who I have no idea, I had something small to eat and refilled at a spring then spotted a sign to a hija, a mountain hut, which I guessed was about 2 hours further. A gentleman coming from the other direction told me the hut was another 3 or 4 hours on and that there was a little room near the church that I could sleep in, he assured me he’d stayed there a few times and there was no problem.

The route from Bachkovo in the Rhodope Mountains

I could move on for another hour and make camp or settle here, either on the flat I’d found or in the little room the man had pointed to which I’d seen but was unsure about. I was in the middle of the mountains now and this little room was half built into a cliff face behind a small church that looked as if it hadn’t been used in years. The room was maybe two by five metres. There was a small platform with a mat on it, working as a bed, a hobo stove made from a steel barrel, scraps of wood and mess around the walls of the room, a desk, broken chair and broken mirror. The desk had some maths books and notepad on the table with a few burnt candles, those skinny yellow ones found in churches over here. Altogether bizarre. It seemed maybe someone from the monastery would come here for isolation every now and again. I decided, although feeling a bit uncomfortable, that I’d take the opportunity to stay the night in the room.

The Magic Room

I got the small fire going and shut the wooden, cardboard insulated, door. I was worried about the smoke in the room and spent some making sure I wasn’t about to smother myself with smoke. I hooked up my small wind-up light, made what I could of the few candle remains and started some writing after preparing some food doing what I could with the heat from the fire. My aim was to keep myself awake long enough to ensure I slept until light and warmth came.

The Magic Room from the outside

It was unusual to sleep there. I awoke in the middle of the night in complete darkness to the sound of torrential rain. Unexpected because the sky looked promising earlier. I couldn’t have been happier to be in my little shelter with warmth from the fire and I passed out again reassured that I’d chosen the best place to rest. My tent wouldn’t have held up so well.

The following day I started for Dobrostan and the walk did turn out to be a 3 hour climb. There was no flat ground or path more than a metre wide until I reached the mountain hut, so I was very fortunate to have stayed at the magic room. As I got to the hut people who it turned out were working there heading in the opposite direction, towards me, in a car. I stopped them and they said there was a dog who would bite me at the hut and that they would return in an hour. I had no need to stay there now, my destination for the day was after Dobrostan, so I took a lift to the very small village. When I got there there was no water, and had been none for 5 days. There is no mains water in the village, a spring serves all the homes who’s owners collect what they need with bottles. There was no shop in the village either, or one with very questionable opening hours. With no water I headed for the next town, 6km away. I got a lift half way there and at the village there was also no water, but a shop where I reluctantly bought some along with some Borovets wafers, my favourite Bulgarian sweet thing. :) I asked a local at their car for a lift on and ended up smoothly on my way to Kardjali.

I arrived at the town approaching dark and spent some hours using the wireless in a cafe, before checking google maps for a green space at the edge of the city. A 2km walk brought me to a field surrounded by factories which I figured I wouldn’t get disturbed in. If I saw someone camping in a very unusual spot the last thing I would want to do is confront them, was my reasoning. So I slept a little cold, but well and happily. It had been a successful journey. :)

Dobrostan

The following morning I started early, got a tea and banitsa, a typical Bulgarian pastry usually had in the mornings and I headed for The Happy Hippy to finish three weeks of very amazing travels. :)

Friends at The Happy Hippy :) Perperikon, Dambala and thoughts

January 28th, 2010

A good friend and very brilliant person, Elena, came to visit over the weekend and I was fortunate enough to meet Christoph a friend of hers and a very nice person visiting from France. Elena is staying in Sofia at the moment, also in the middle of her European Voluntary Service project, working with the Balkan Youth Festival. The organisation is responsible for an annual festival promoting Balkan culture, particularly through music and dance. I was very happy to have been in Sandanski (Сандански), a town in Southwest Bulgaria, during the festival last year. :)

Elena at Perperikon

Elena at Perperikon

I met Elena and Christoph in Kardjali (Кърджали) the nearest town from my current residence and from there we headed for Perperikon,  the ruins of an ancient Thracian and then Roman city, where Alexander the Great is said to have received the prophecy that he was to conquer the world. Covered heavily in snow the ruins were beautiful, although difficult to navigate around. We came across a helpful local who provided us with some information before cautiously offering to sell us coins apparently found in the area. You could spend the day walking around the site and despite very consciously trying, I don’t think I came close to comprehending that some of the remains of that place are 10,000 years old. 100 years seems a long time and I can little relate to people living more than a few decades. What sense does a figure like 10,000 carry. It feels like somewhere in my mind worth exploring.

Sitting on Alexander the Great's throne

Sitting on Alexander the Great's throne

The following day, Monday, joined by Marco, a friend visiting Corrado another volunteer and friend from Italy, the four of us started towards Dambala. A spring can be found there, with water said to have healing properties, especially on the 6th May. On that day people travel from around Bulgaria to bath and take water. The forty minute walk took a little over two hours because of the even minimum foot of snow we dragged our feet through.

Christoph, myself and Marco at Dambala

Christoph, myself and Marco at Dambala

Dambala is found by continuing past Letovnik (Летовник), the tiny village hosting the magical place I’m helping out at now; The Happy Hippy Hostel. I’ve spent quite some time designing their recently launched Website, let me know what you think: www.happyhippyhostel.eu :) It should give a sense of the place better than I can summarise here… Here’s a short video / slideshow I’ve put together showing a little of the loving process that’s happened here :)

It’s night now and I’m sitting on the floor beside the fire, heating my right side a little more than my left. I tried a savoury pumpkin crumble recipe for dinner this evening which was successful and the meat eaters were very satisfied and entertained with the pigs head they cooked up. I put together an apple crisp cake (thanks again Carolyn :) ) and it sealed in all the gourmet goodness. I’m sipping a small glass of red wine and digesting the food in my belly as I also digest the time recently gone by in my mind. Thursday today. Tuesday was National Australia Day, and we Dave, Lara, Corrado and Marco celebrated in style with our Aussie cohabitants, Scott and Lara. We barbecued in the snow at about -10 degrees and cooked up home made burgers, sausages and veggie skewers. I went so far as to have a burger and beer, essential for my first official Aussie day celebrations. :)

Very nice snow formations en route to Dambala

Very nice snow formations en route to Dambala

I started to read through a book of Lara’s, HEMP: healthy eating made possible. It has some radical nutritional ideas, a lot of which I like and make sense to me. I tried a two day fast at the end of last week, the second fast I’ve tried, as an experiment to clear up a cold and to see how I felt in general. I usually feel very light and become aware of different things. Generally I like fasting and don’t find it difficult, I do it because I want to, otherwise I wouldn’t, so if I want to eat, I eat. Coming out of the fast I find I feel a bit slow and tried to ease back into ‘normal’ eating very slowly. Some dietary ideas I’m trying, not eating in the mornings, I have warm water with lemon juice and don’t eat until lunch. I always feel fantastic after this. Sweet things I’m considering cutting down or substituting, but I still love them, so I have to think of better reasoning than that I shouldn’t eat them. That just doesn’t work. I have to reason that I don’t want to, or want to not eat them, or want to eat something else more that’s a better option.

I got word from a very good friend that he’s coming over in May, absolutely fantastic news and I spoke last night with two very fantastic people and friends in Ireland last night which was beautiful. :)

I have had an idea. I’m taking travelling, myself, design, volunteering and a couple of smaller things to season with and mixing them together to output what I believe will be something amazing. I will write on it when the time comes. Shortly hopefully, it excites me and I would like to hear what you think.

The sun sets as we return to Letovnik

The sun sets as we return to Letovnik

Lots of love and magic. :) (Update: I’ve cheakily used Elena‘s very nice photos. Thank you :) )

Bansko: A series of very fortunate events :)

January 23rd, 2010

It’s been a very long time since I’ve written. Just over three months now. What have I done, where have I been and who have I met… :)

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I have spent a couple of weeks hitchhiking and camping around Bulgaria. After some very nice days spent with friends in Sofia, I started for Bansko. Taking a wrong train I ended up quite delayed in reaching my chosen hitching spot; dusk had come by the time I started trying to flag down vehicles. After two hours I was without luck and had resigned myself to sleeping at a bus shelter nearby. It had started to rain but I figured worst case I have this little shelter and my tent. Then rain started to pour and just as I was about to resign a van pulled over.

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Amazingly the driver, Constantine, was going directly to Bansko. The town is quite a bit off the main road and I assumed I would have to get two if not several cars there. It’s very nice to revisit this memory after so long. :) We talked about his son working in the UK and the complex where he worked and we were heading for. The company was very nice.

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On arriving in Bansko he insisted I look for a hostel or other cheap accommodation as it was still raining and quite cold. I maintain I would’ve found a place for my tent and survived, but his idea didn’t seem the worst at the time. No where other than hotels were to be found and he kindly offered the back of his van to sleep in. Luxury. :) But more very unexpected and brilliant fortune was to come my way. On arriving as his destination and place of work he invited me in for a coffee, where I met the owner, Terry, who was on a business visit from the UK. After spending some time talking with him, he offered the staff room on the top floor of the complex. Matress, running water, hot shower in the morning… Really luxury now. :)

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I spent the evening writing and dancing around the room by myself thinking of and appreciating the very brilliant day that was born of a doubtful start. Optimism always succeeds for me. :)

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The next morning I joined Constantine for a tea before thanking and parting company. I explored Bansko, beautiful and free from visitors, it being October, found a beautiful little cake shop, sampled their wears and headed in the direction of Plovdiv.

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My intention was to spend some days in the Pirin Mountains and reach Vihren, the highest summit there, and second highest in Bulgaria. My realisation was to experience an incredible kindness and take another unexpected direction on my travels. :)

Green Balkans, Stara Zagora | Зелени Балкани, Стара Загора

October 22nd, 2009

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I’ve moved from Lovech to Stara Zagora to visit a friend working his EVS project with Green Balkans Wildlife Rehabilitation and Breeding Centre. They take in injured birds and have several endangered species in breeding and reintroduction programs. I spent today helping Corrado feeding the birds and with some cleaning.

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I fed and was so close to so many amazing animals, three types of buzzard, levant sparrow hawk, kestral and the lesser kestral, pelican, stork, black kite, lessar spotted eagle, falcons, several types of vulture, several types of eagle and several types of owl. My favourite is the scops owl, it’s about 10cm tall, it looks surreal. I didn’t know there were owls that small. :)

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I was attacked by the male pelican, he was not fond of me at all, even though I gave him and his partner their food. :) One of the most impacting encounters was with the Imperial Eagles, one of the most endangered birds of prey in the world. There are few of them still in the wild, only eleven thirty couples in Bulgaria. They are beautiful and memorable.

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I arrived a day previous in the city and after a brief walk around I headed for the large park to the north of the city. Corrado mentioned the park didn’t end and just trailed off into the mountains, so my mission was to keep walking north and find a nice spot to set up camp for the night. So I did. It was the first night I’ve camped alone here. I slowly read a couple of paragraphs of my newly purchased book in Bulgarian, cooked up some food and went to bed quite warm thankfully. :)

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Now to Sofia and to the Pirin Mountains for a couple of days before arriving at the next stage of my project, The Happy Hippy Hostel. :) Beautiful things to everyone!